Contents
- Introduction: The Art of Football in the Arctic
- The Lofoten Islands: A Journey to the Edge of the World
- Welcome to Lofoten: A Land of Dramatic Contrasts
- The Village of Henningsvær: The Venice of Lofoten
- The Story of the Pitch: Carving a Field from the Rocks
- A Dream in the Arctic
- Engineering on an Islet
- The Cod Racks and the Floodlights
- The Visitor’s Guide: Making the Pilgrimage
- How to Get to the Lofoten Islands
- Getting to Henningsvær
- Experiencing the Pitch
- The Photographer’s Guide
- Practical Information
- Where to Stay
- Weather and What to Pack
- Respectful Tourism
- Summary: Football at its Purest
- Key Visitor Information
Introduction: The Art of Football in the Arctic
Far away from the roaring crowds, the corporate sponsors, and the manicured perfection of professional football, there exists a place where the beautiful game is played in its most pure and breathtaking form. Deep within the Arctic Circle, nestled among a string of tiny, rugged islands that make up the Lofoten archipelago of Norway, lies the Henningsvær Idrettslag Stadion. To call it a “stadium” is a grand overstatement. There are no stands, no turnstiles, and no commercial hoardings. It is, simply, a perfect rectangle of green artificial turf set against one of the most dramatic and beautiful landscapes on Earth.
In recent years, thanks to the advent of drone photography and the power of social media, this humble amateur pitch has become a global icon, a pilgrimage site for photographers, travelers, and football romantics. The iconic aerial images—of the pristine green field surrounded by the deep blue of the Norwegian Sea, the dramatic granite peaks, and the iconic wooden racks used for drying cod—have transformed it into a symbol. It represents football at its most essential: a community space, a source of joy, and a human endeavor in perfect, beautiful harmony with the raw power of nature. This guide is your complete journey to this remarkable place. We will explore the story of its creation, the stunning environment it calls home, and provide a detailed, practical roadmap for anyone who dreams of seeing the world’s most beautiful football pitch with their own eyes.
The Lofoten Islands: A Journey to the Edge of the World
To understand the magic of the Henningsvær pitch, one must first understand the extraordinary part of the world it inhabits. The Lofoten Islands are a chain of islands that hang off the coast of northern Norway, renowned for a landscape that seems to have been forged by the gods of mythology.
Welcome to Lofoten: A Land of Dramatic Contrasts
This is a place of dramatic, almost impossible beauty. Jagged, granite mountains, their peaks often dusted with snow even in summer, rise sharply and directly from the sea. Between these peaks, the coastline is dotted with sheltered bays and picturesque fishing villages, where traditional red and yellow wooden cabins (rorbuer) stand on stilts over the water. The quality of the light here is legendary. In the summer, the islands are bathed in the ethereal glow of the Midnight Sun, with 24 hours of daylight. In the winter, the long polar nights provide the perfect canvas for the shimmering, dancing spectacle of the Aurora Borealis, the Northern Lights. The weather is a constant presence—wild, unpredictable, and capable of shifting from serene sunshine to a dramatic, windswept squall in a matter of minutes. This is the wild and epic stage upon which the Henningsvær pitch is set.
The Village of Henningsvær: The Venice of Lofoten
Henningsvær itself is one of Lofoten’s most charming and vibrant villages. It is not located on the main island chain but is spread across several small islets, all connected to the mainland by a series of elegant, arching bridges. This gives it a unique, maritime character, earning it the nickname the “Venice of Lofoten.” The harbour is the heart of the village, bustling with fishing boats that have sustained the community for centuries. In recent decades, Henningsvær has also become a bohemian hub, attracting artists, climbers, and adventurers, with a surprising number of independent art galleries, cozy cafes, and excellent seafood restaurants. It was this community’s desire for a space for its children that led to the creation of its world-famous football pitch.
The Story of the Pitch: Carving a Field from the Rocks
The existence of such a perfect football pitch in such an unlikely location is a testament to the ingenuity and determination of the local community and the power of modern engineering.
A Dream in the Arctic
For many years, the children and amateur players of Henningsvær Idrettslag (Henningsvær’s sports club) had to make do with a simple gravel pitch. In a place where it rains over 200 days a year, this was often a muddy and unforgiving surface. The community dreamed of a proper, modern pitch where the local youth could train and play year-round. The problem was space. The village of Henningsvær is densely built on its small islands, with no obvious flat, open land available. The only solution was to look to the very edge of the village, to the rocky, uninhabited southern tip of the main islet, Hellandsøya.
Engineering on an Islet
Creating the pitch was a significant feat of engineering. The islet was not flat; it was a rugged, uneven expanse of solid granite bedrock. To create the playing surface, contractors had to blast and level the rock, a process that required heavy machinery to create a perfectly flat base. A layer of crushed stone and shock-absorbing material was then laid down before the final surface was installed. The pitch itself is a high-grade artificial turf, as natural grass would be nearly impossible to maintain in the harsh arctic climate. Surrounding the green turf is a narrow strip of asphalt, which serves as a runoff area and a standing space for spectators. There are no formal stands or barriers; the pitch is contained only by the rugged bedrock that was left in place, forming a natural, craggy wall around the perimeter.
The Cod Racks and the Floodlights
The features that make the aerial photographs so iconic are intrinsically linked to the life of the village. The giant, A-frame wooden structures that surround the pitch are called hjell. These are traditional racks used for drying Arctic cod. The Lofoten fishery has been the lifeblood of the region for centuries, and the sight of thousands of cod hanging in the cold, clean air is a defining feature of the landscape. The placement of the pitch directly next to these racks is a beautiful, visual representation of the two great passions of the village: fishing and football. To make the pitch usable during the long, dark arctic winter, a set of powerful, modern floodlights were installed, allowing children to train and play even in the depths of the polar night.
The Visitor’s Guide: Making the Pilgrimage
A trip to Henningsvær is an adventure, and experiencing the football pitch is the reward at the end of a stunning journey.
How to Get to the Lofoten Islands
- By Air: The most common route is to fly from Oslo (OSL) to Bodø (BOO) on the Norwegian mainland. From Bodø, you can take a spectacular 3-4 hour ferry ride across to Moskenes in Lofoten, or take a short connecting flight to one of the two small airports on the islands: Svolvær (SVJ) or Leknes (LKN). Svolvær is the closest airport to Henningsvær.
- By Car: For the ultimate road trip, you can drive. The main road through the islands is the E10, a designated National Scenic Route. The journey is long but offers some of the most spectacular coastal scenery in Europe.
Getting to Henningsvær
Once in Lofoten, Henningsvær is easily accessible. From the main town of Svolvær, it is a stunning 25-kilometer (15.5-mile) drive along the coast. Renting a car is the best way to explore the islands at your own pace. Local bus services also connect Svolvær to Henningsvær several times a day.
Experiencing the Pitch
This is the most beautiful part of the Henningsvær experience: the pitch is a completely open, public space. There are no gates, no fences, no tickets, and no opening hours. It is located at the very end of the road that winds through the village. You can simply park your car and walk out onto the islet. You are free to walk around the perimeter, sit on the rocks, and soak in the incredible atmosphere. The best times to visit are during the summer months (June-August) for the chance to see it under the Midnight Sun, or in the winter (September-March) for the possibility of seeing it covered in snow or illuminated by the Northern Lights.
The Photographer’s Guide
Henningsvær is a photographer’s dream. The world-famous aerial view can only be achieved with a drone (be sure to follow local regulations). For those without a drone, a fantastic elevated perspective can be found by climbing the small hill at the entrance to the village. Don’t neglect ground-level photography; the contrast between the perfect green turf, the rugged grey rocks, the deep blue sea, and the jagged mountains is stunning from any angle.
Practical Information
Where to Stay
Henningsvær offers a range of unique accommodation, from modern hotels to traditional rorbuer (fishermen’s cabins) that have been beautifully renovated for tourists. The larger town of Svolvær, just a 30-minute drive away, offers a wider range of hotels and amenities. It is essential to book accommodation far in advance, especially during the peak summer season.
Weather and What to Pack
The weather in Lofoten is notoriously unpredictable. Even in summer, it can be cool, wet, and windy. The key is to pack layers. A waterproof and windproof jacket, warm sweaters or fleeces, sturdy waterproof footwear, and a hat and gloves are essential items, regardless of the time of year you visit.
Respectful Tourism
When you visit the pitch, remember that you are a guest. This is a vital community asset, used daily by the local children and amateur teams of Henningsvær IL. If a training session or a match is in progress, enjoy it from the sidelines and do not interfere. Always follow the principle of “leave no trace”—take all of your rubbish with you and leave this beautiful place exactly as you found it.
Summary: Football at its Purest
- The World’s Most Beautiful Pitch: This is not a stadium, but a playing field. Its legendary status comes entirely from its jaw-droppingly beautiful and remote arctic location.
- The Journey is the Destination: Getting to Henningsvær is an adventure through the spectacular scenery of the Lofoten Islands, one of the most beautiful places on Earth.
- An Open Sanctuary: The pitch is a completely open and accessible public space. There are no tickets or barriers, allowing for a uniquely personal and intimate experience.
- A Photographer’s Paradise: While made famous by drones, the pitch and its surroundings offer stunning photographic opportunities from every angle.
- A Symbol of Community: Ultimately, the Henningsvær pitch is a powerful testament to a small community’s love for football and their determination to create a space for joy in one of the world’s wildest landscapes.
Key Visitor Information
- Address: Henningsvær, 8312, Lofoten Islands, Norway
- Official Website: N/A (It is a public community facility)
- Access: Open to the public 24/7. No tickets required.
- Operator: Henningsvær IL (local sports club)

James Dooley is the founder of Away Grounds and a passionate football fan from a young age. His passion for the game was first sparked by attending matches with his father, and as a lifelong Manchester United supporter, he has experienced the full spectrum of emotions that come with following a club up and down the country. It was during these countless away days – navigating unfamiliar towns, searching for a decent pre-match pub, and figuring out the best parking spots – that the idea for Away Grounds was born.
James recognised a need for a single, reliable resource created from a true fan’s perspective and decided to fill that gap. Today, Away Grounds is the culmination of that vision, offering comprehensive guides designed to simplify the journey for fellow supporters. His mission is to take the guesswork out of away travel, allowing fans to focus on what truly matters: the atmosphere, the camaraderie, and the beautiful game.