Eidi Stadium: The Complete Guide to the Faroe Islands’ Lost Atlantic Arena

Introduction: A Ghost on the Edge of the World

There are football grounds that are famous for the history made within their walls, and then there are those that are famous for the very fact they exist at all. In the wild, windswept Faroe Islands, on the absolute northwestern edge of the island of Eysturoy, lies the memory of such a place. The old Eidi Stadium, or á Mølini as it was known locally, was never home to a major club, nor did it host a legendary final. Its fame was derived from its breathtakingly audacious location: a perfect green rectangle perched on a narrow spit of land, with the full, untamed fury of the North Atlantic Ocean as its touchline.

This guide is different from others in our collection. It is not a guide to an active stadium, but an homage to a legendary lost ground—a ghost pitch whose story has become a cherished piece of football folklore. This was a place where the wind was the 12th man, where the most important member of the team was the man in the boat retrieving footballs from the sea, and where the raw power of nature was a constant and formidable opponent. In recent years, the pitch has been transformed, given a new life as a campsite, but its soul remains. This is the complete story of one of the most beautiful and extreme football locations ever conceived, and a practical guide for any traveller who wishes to make the pilgrimage to the edge of the world to stand where football once dared to take on the ocean.

The Faroe Islands: A Football-Mad Nation in the North Atlantic

To understand why a community would ever decide to build a football pitch in such an impossibly exposed location, one must first understand the Faroese soul and its profound connection to the beautiful game.

A Land of Wind, Water, and Football

The Faroe Islands are an archipelago of 18 rugged, volcanic islands situated halfway between Norway and Iceland. It is a land of dramatic, otherworldly beauty. Steep, treeless mountains plunge directly into deep fjords, and the landscape is painted in a hundred different shades of green. But it is also a land defined by its weather. The climate is subpolar oceanic—constantly windy, often rainy, and famously unpredictable. The sea is not a gentle neighbour; it is a powerful, ever-present force that has shaped the nation’s character.

In this remote and often harsh environment, football is not just a sport; it is an obsession. With a population of just over 50,000 people, the Faroe Islands have a disproportionately high number of football pitches and registered players. The game is a vital part of the social fabric of every small village, a source of immense national pride and a welcome distraction during the long, dark winters. The Faroese approach to football is defined by resilience, teamwork, and a cheerful defiance of the elements.

The Miracle of Landskrona: The Day the Amateurs Shocked the World

The defining moment in Faroese football history occurred on September 12, 1990. The Faroe Islands were playing their first-ever competitive international match, a qualifier for Euro 1992 against Austria. As they had no suitable grass pitch at the time, the match was played in Landskrona, Sweden. The Faroese team was a collection of amateurs—a postman, a salesman, a warehouse worker—while the Austrians were a respected European side.

In one of the greatest upsets in football history, the Faroe Islands won 1-0. The goalscorer was Torkil Nielsen, a local wood salesman. The goalkeeper, Jens Martin Knudsen, became a global icon with his unorthodox saves and his famous white bobble hat. The victory was a miracle that sent shockwaves through the footballing world and sparked euphoric celebrations back home. This “Miracle of Landskrona” instilled a powerful belief in the Faroese people: that even as a tiny, remote nation, they could compete with and defeat the giants. It is this defiant, underdog spirit that is embodied in the story of the Eidi Stadium.

The Story of Eidi Stadium: A Pitch on the Edge of the World

The tale of the pitch at Eiði is a perfect microcosm of the Faroese football story: a tale of making do, of community effort, and of a deep love for the game in the face of incredible natural obstacles.

The Village of Eiði

The village of Eiði is located on the northwestern tip of Eysturoy, the second-largest of the Faroe Islands. It is a quiet, picturesque settlement with a small harbour, a beautiful old church, and a population of around 700 people. Its name translates to “isthmus,” as it sits on a narrow strip of land. The village lies in the shadow of the 880-metre-high Slættaratindur, the tallest mountain in the Faroes, and looks out across the water towards the iconic sea stacks known as Risin og Kellingin (“The Giant and the Witch”). It is a place of immense natural beauty and isolation.

Building in an Impossible Place

For years, the local football club needed a home. In a village squeezed between a mountain and the sea, flat land is the most precious of commodities. The only viable location was a narrow, windswept stretch of ground called á Mølini, right on the water’s edge. It was barely wide enough for a pitch and was completely exposed to the elements. But it was the only option. An artificial turf pitch was laid, surrounded by little more than a small gravel path. There were no stands, just a pitch, some goals, and the vast, unforgiving ocean.

Playing Against the Elements: The Legend of the Ball-Boat

Playing at Eidi was a unique and often absurd challenge.

  • The Wind: The primary opponent on any given day was the wind. The stadium’s location meant it was constantly battered by powerful gusts sweeping in directly off the North Atlantic. A simple long pass could be blown back into your own half.
  • The Ocean: The stadium’s most famous feature was its proximity to the sea. On three sides, the pitch was mere feet from the rocky shoreline. Any overhit shot was destined for a watery grave in the cold ocean. This gave rise to the legendary Eidi tradition: during matches, a man in a small boat would be stationed just offshore. His sole job was to retrieve the steady stream of footballs that were inevitably kicked into the water. This image is what made the ground famous among football romantics.

For the home team, it was a formidable advantage. For visiting teams, a trip to Eidi was an intimidating prospect, a journey where they had to battle not just the opposition, but the very elements of nature itself.

The Transformation: From Football Pitch to Campsite

As much as the stadium was loved for its unique character, its limitations became impossible to ignore. The extreme weather made for difficult playing conditions, and the venue did not meet modernizing standards. In the 2010s, the club moved to a new, more sheltered stadium. For a few years, the legendary pitch at Eiði lay abandoned, a lonely green rectangle being reclaimed by the elements.

However, in 2019, the community gave the iconic location a new lease of life. Recognizing the stunning beauty of the spot, the old football pitch was officially converted into a campsite, named Camping á Mølini. This clever act of reinvention has ensured that this beautiful place is not lost, but can now be shared and experienced in a new and even more immersive way. The perfect green rectangle of artificial turf is now dotted with caravans and tents. The goalposts have been removed, but the outline of the pitch remains. Visitors can now spend the night on what was once one of the world’s most famous football fields, falling asleep to the sound of the Atlantic waves.

The Visitor’s Guide: A Pilgrimage to a Ghost Ground

A journey to the site of the old Eidi Stadium is a pilgrimage to a piece of footballing history, set within one of the most stunning landscapes in Europe.

How to Get to the Faroe Islands

The main gateway to the islands is Vágar Airport (FAE). The national carrier, Atlantic Airways, operates year-round flights from Copenhagen and several other seasonal European routes. Upon arrival, the best way to explore the islands is by renting a car. The roads are excellent, and a remarkable network of sub-sea tunnels connects the main islands.

Getting to Eiði

Eiði is located on the northwestern tip of Eysturoy island. From the airport or the capital city of Tórshavn, it is a scenic drive of about 70-90 minutes. The journey will take you through sub-sea tunnels and along beautiful, winding coastal roads. The drive itself is a huge part of the Faroese experience.

Experiencing the Site Today

The campsite is located at the very end of the road through Eiði village. It is an open and accessible site. You can drive right up to the edge of the old pitch. Even though it is now a campsite, its footballing soul is still palpable. You can walk the perimeter and imagine the challenge of taking a throw-in with the wind howling around you. The best viewpoint for the classic photograph is from the road that winds up the hill just south of the village, offering a magnificent frame of the pitch, the village, and the sea.

Staying the Night

For the ultimate experience, you can book a spot to camp on the old pitch. The campsite offers facilities for motorhomes and tents, with access to a service building with showers and a kitchen. Booking can be done online through various Faroese tourism and camping websites. Spending a night here, under the Midnight Sun in summer or with a chance of seeing the Northern Lights in winter, is an unforgettable experience for any football romantic.

Summary: Where the Game Met the Ocean

  • A Legendary Lost Ground: The old Eidi Stadium is a ghost pitch, a former footballing outpost famous for its extreme and beautiful location on the edge of the Atlantic.
  • The Spirit of the Faroes: Its story embodies the resilient, defiant, and passionate football culture of the Faroe Islands.
  • The Ball-Retrieving Boat: It will forever be remembered for the iconic image of a man in a boat, whose job it was to rescue stray footballs from the ocean.
  • A New Life as a Campsite: The site has been beautifully repurposed as Camping á Mølini, allowing visitors a unique opportunity to stay the night on a piece of footballing folklore.
  • A True Pilgrimage: A visit to Eiði is more than just seeing an old pitch. It is a journey to the heart of the Faroese landscape and a chance to pay respects to one of the most wonderfully impractical football fields ever created.

Key Visitor Information

  • Name: Camping á Mølini (formerly Eidi Stadium)
  • Address: Mølini, Eiði, 470, Faroe Islands
  • Official Website: www.camping.fo/a-molini-eidi (Official Campsite Listing)
  • Access: Open to the public for viewing. Camping spots must be booked.
  • Operator: Eiði Camping / Local Community