Stadion Rajko Mitić: The Complete Guide to Red Star’s Intimidating “Marakana”

Introduction

In the Dedinje hills of Belgrade stands a stadium that is less a piece of architecture and more a living, breathing volcano of human emotion. Officially named Stadion Rajko Mitić after the club’s first great star, it is known to the world by a more evocative name: the Marakana. A direct homage to Brazil’s temple of football, Belgrade’s version is a cathedral of a different kind. It is a fortress of concrete and noise, a stage for some of Europe’s most intense and intimidating atmospheres, and the spiritual home of Crvena Zvezda, or Red Star Belgrade.

A visit to the Marakana is a pilgrimage to one of the last bastions of raw, unfiltered football passion. It is a sensory assault, a spectacle of colossal choreographies, blazing pyrotechnics, and a constant, deafening roar generated by the club’s fanatical supporters, the Delije. This is a place where fear is a weapon, where the ground’s most infamous feature is not its pitch, but the long, dark tunnel players must walk to reach it. This guide will take you deep inside one of European football’s most formidable fortresses. We will explore its storied past, the culture of the fans who give it its soul, the experience of the Eternal Derby, and provide the essential, practical advice needed for any fan brave enough to witness the spectacle for themselves.

A Socialist Giant Forged in Passion: The Story of the Marakana

The history of the Marakana is intertwined with the history of post-war Yugoslavia, built as a monumental statement of the club’s and the nation’s ambition.

Building a Balkan Fortress

Constructed between 1960 and 1963 on the site of a previous stadium, the new ground was a marvel of socialist-era engineering. When it opened, its official capacity was a staggering 110,000, making it one of the largest stadiums in the world. It was this colossal scale that quickly earned it the nickname “Marakana.” A key feature of its design is that the pitch and lower tier are sunken below ground level, with the stands rising out of a man-made crater. This “sunken bowl” design proved to have a dramatic effect on the stadium’s acoustics, trapping the noise and focusing it onto the pitch like a parabolic dish.

The Delije: The Heartbeat of the North Stand

The soul of the Marakana resides in its north stand, the Sever, home to the Delije (a term loosely translated as “Heroes” or “Hardmen”). They are one of the most famous and formidable ultras groups in the world. They are not merely spectators; they are the conductors of the entire matchday experience. The Delije are renowned for their massive, full-stand choreographies (tifo), which often involve intricate mosaics, giant banners, and powerful political or historical imagery. This visual spectacle is accompanied by a relentless, synchronised wall of sound and, most famously, enormous pyrotechnic displays that can light up the entire stadium in a blaze of red and white fire. To the Delije, the North Stand is sacred ground, and their performance is as important as the one on the pitch.

The Tunnel: A Walk into Football Hell

Arguably the single most iconic and intimidating feature of the Marakana is its players’ tunnel. It is not the sterile, branded corridor of a modern stadium. It is a long, narrow, graffiti-covered concrete passage that slopes down from the dressing rooms before rising towards the pitch. Flanked by heavily armed riot police, visiting teams must embark on a lonely, unnerving walk through this grim channel, the deafening and distorted roar from the stands echoing around them. It is a deliberate act of psychological warfare, a final test of nerve before they emerge from the darkness into the blazing hostility of the cauldron itself. Many players have admitted to being beaten before they even kicked a ball.

European Glory and the Eternal Derby

The Marakana’s reputation was cemented during Red Star’s legendary run to the 1991 European Cup. The stadium was an impregnable fortress where giants of European football were humbled. The semi-final second leg against Bayern Munich is considered the stadium’s greatest night, where a last-minute own goal sent Red Star to the final, sparking scenes of pandemonium that shook the city. The stadium is also the primary stage for the Večiti derbi (the Eternal Derby) against city rivals Partizan. Considered one of the most volatile and dangerous derbies in the world, the match transforms the stadium and the city into a battleground of passion and tribal hatred, with the Delije using the occasion to create their most spectacular and intimidating displays.

The Future of the Marakana: Modernisation of a Concrete Cathedral

While the Marakana is rich in history, it is an ageing giant. The concrete is crumbling, and its facilities are decades behind modern European standards. For years, the club and city have debated its future, a conversation that has now solidified into concrete plans.

In 2023, Red Star Belgrade officially presented a project for a brand-new stadium to be built on the same site, with a tentative completion date around 2030. The ambitious plans showcase a modern, 42,000-capacity arena with a full suite of corporate and commercial facilities. The proposed design appears to remove the athletic track, bringing fans closer to the action, and crucially, aims to retain the famous sunken-bowl effect to preserve the stadium’s legendary acoustics. The challenge will be monumental: to build a modern stadium that can generate the revenue needed to compete in Europe, without losing the raw, intimidating soul of the concrete cathedral it replaces.

The Four Stands

Each of the Marakana’s four stands plays a role in its imposing atmosphere.

  • Sever (North): The heart of the stadium and the undisputed home of the Delije. This is the source of the noise, the colour, and the intimidation.
  • Jug (South): Located behind the opposite goal, this stand typically houses the away supporters, who are placed in a heavily segregated section.
  • Zapad (West): The main stand, housing the VIP and press boxes, the dressing rooms, and the infamous players’ tunnel.
  • Istok (East): The large stand running along the opposite side of the pitch, offering a panoramic view of the Delije’s choreographies.

The Away Fan’s Guide (Priority Section)

Location and View in the ‘Kavez’ (The Cage)

Visiting supporters are placed in a segregated section in the upper tier of the South Stand (Jug). This section is universally known as the Kavez – “The Cage.” The name is apt. It is surrounded by high fences and perspex screens, with a significant buffer zone separating it from the home fans. The view of the pitch is distant but clear and unobstructed. However, the experience is less about the view and more about being inside a secure bubble within a hostile environment.

Pubs and Pre-Match for Visitors

This is a critical point for safety. Under no circumstances should you wear club colours in Belgrade on matchday. Do not attempt to find a pub near the stadium. The standard procedure for European matches involves a designated meeting point for away fans in the city centre, often at Studentski Trg (Student Square). From here, fans are typically escorted to the stadium by a massive police presence, often on specially chartered buses. This is the only safe way to travel to the ground. Always follow the advice of your club and local police.

Security and Entry

The security operation around the Marakana is on a military scale. Expect multiple, thorough checkpoints and searches on the approach to the stadium. Your ticket and passport may be checked several times. It is absolutely essential to arrive at the designated meeting point extremely early. The process of getting thousands of away fans to the ground and through security is incredibly slow. Once the match is over, away fans are typically held back in the stadium for a significant period (sometimes over an hour) until the home supporters have dispersed.

Practical Information – Getting to the Game

Public Transport

For independent travellers (not recommended for most away fans), the stadium is accessible via Belgrade’s public transport network of trams and buses. Several lines run from the city centre (e.g., from Slavija Square) towards the Autokomanda interchange, which is a short walk from the stadium. Key bus lines include 40, 41, and 59. Trolleybuses 40 and 41 are also a good option.

Taxi

Taxis are plentiful and relatively cheap in Belgrade. While this is a viable option, be aware of matchday traffic, which can be severe. Ensure you use a registered taxi and that the meter is on.

Driving

Driving to the Marakana is not a feasible option. There is no official public parking, and the surrounding streets are chaotic and often closed off.

The Red Star Museum

The club has a well-maintained museum located within the West Stand of the stadium.

Museum Experience and Highlights

The museum is a proud display of the club’s illustrious history. The undeniable centerpiece is the collection of major European and world trophies: the 1991 European Cup and the 1991 Intercontinental Cup. It is a powerful reminder of the days when the club, and this stadium, stood at the very pinnacle of world football.

Booking and Prices

The museum is typically open on weekdays. Entry is affordable, usually costing just a few euros. It is best to check the official club website for current opening times and prices.

Summary: A Pilgrimage into the Heart of Football Passion

  • Your Safety is Paramount: Do not wear colours, stay in designated areas, and always travel with the official police escort. This is not a ground for casual, independent exploration as an away fan.
  • Arrive Exceptionally Early: The security and escort process is long. Be at the city centre meeting point hours before kick-off.
  • Public Transport is for Neutrals: If attending as a neutral, buses and trolleybuses from the city centre are effective.
  • Witness the Spectacle: The experience is defined by the Delije in the North Stand and the intimidating walk through the players’ tunnel.
  • Be Prepared for Anything: A match at the Marakana is not just a game. It is a raw, intense, intimidating, and utterly unforgettable immersion into one of the world’s most passionate football cultures.

Key Visitor Information

  • Address: Ljutice Bogdana 1a, Beograd 11000, Serbia
  • Official Website: www.crvenazvezdafk.com/en
  • Museum Information: Check the official club website for the most current opening hours and prices.
  • Contact Phone: +381 11 3679220
  • Operator: Red Star Belgrade